We have visited Gialos, the harbour of Symi island, many times over
the years and been seduced by this beautiful town with it’s gorgeous pastel
coloured neo-classical houses nestled in the natural amphitheater around the
harbour and up the hillside. We have always been on the boat, which, in this
small and busy harbour, can be a bit stressful, and so this year we decided to
stay there en-route to Leros where the boat was kept during the winter. Our
friend Alison joined us early on as she wanted to be on the boat from the
beginning to help commission it.
We scoured the internet and found a lovely traditional
house that we hoped would be as beautiful in reality as it was on the net. We
were not disappointed; not with the house, the view, or the delightful Maria,
whose husband’s great, great grandfather had built it for his daughter. From
there we watched the goings on in the harbor from the luxury of our balcony
that was not in danger of having its anchor picked up by badly skippered boats!
Rhodes and Symi architect who we had met a few years
ago in Rhodes and ws, Anastasia Papaioannou, had offered to take us on a walking tour around the town
and explore places we had not seen before. We jumped at the chance, and for the
next two days were surprised and delighted to see Symi’s other faces, mostly
hidden from the view of visitors.
Anastasia passionately fights the case of heritage in
a world dominated by bureaucracy, and all too often, stupidity. She at times
railed against bizarre building decisions, insensitively renovated churches and
awful colour choices and then praised perfectly proportioned and restored houses,
romantic ruins with the patina of age in their layers upon layers of crumbling
plaster, textured walls and shades of ochre, faded blue, soft umber and
delicate cream.
We made our way through fascinating winding streets and
narrow alleys, a new surprise around every corner.
Henry loved the mono-pitched rooves that contrasted
with the elaborate neo-classical designs that they pre-dated but fitted in so
harmoniously with. He had in fact taken a photo a few years ago of a renovated
house with interlocking prismatic shapes that he thought was beautifully
designed. During our walk, Anastasia pointed it out as one of her own houses,
initially a stable and now a stylish holiday rental that fitted perfectly into
its context!
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| Anastasia's house near the harbour |
She told us stories of times when Symi prospered
through sponge diving when all the men went out for weeks at a time to dive for
sponges, a treacherous occupation. With vivid emotion, she pointed out the area
where the boats would come back, children shouting “they’re here, they’re here”
as the entire town rushed down to meet them, praying that their sons, brothers and fathers had
survived.
She showed us inside a sponge captain’s mansion that
she had restored, tall windows overlooking the harbor with wide floor boards
and exquisitely painted ceilings. A wonderful 3D cube motif had been used on
floor, ceilings and external cornices.
Her own house where she invited us to dinner, was an
old shepherds hut which she renovated more than 20 years ago, and over the
years she has bought more small buildings around it, adding on in a delightful
organic way. In a saddle high up behind the harbor between two hills, this was
an area where shepherds and other humble people lived, far away from the
imposing harbor mansions and impressive Venetian double or triple story houses.
People thought she was crazy buying and building here, but now those in the
know are clamouring for her to fix up a house in this beautiful area with views
down over the roof tops, across the shimmering Aegean and to the mountains of
Turkey in the distance.
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| Looking across the valley towards her house |
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| View from the terrace |
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| The harbour below and Turkey in the distance |
Anastasia, in true ‘philoxenia” style, had given up
two whole days for us and shared her love and knowledge of Symi – generosity of
spirit unsurpassed!
Asterope Traditional House - Maria: +30 697 6777594 http://www.asterope.gr
Anastasia: +30 694 858 9800, symi-an@hol.gr. She can give you more details
