Favourite places in the Peloponnese and sailing experiences

SALLY

Coming away for 6 months, the time stretched ahead endlessly and it was difficult to imagine it ever coming to an end. We planned to write often on the places we visited and experiences we have had. Unfortunately, when not exploring or sailing, we have become too good at gazing at the goings on in port – or just into the distance. And so, in our blog we have not even left the Ionian islands – which in fact we left early in June.

So, today I want to jump ahead, to the last two marvellous places we have visited. For the last 6 weeks or so, our aim was to get to Monemvasia, almost at the southern most point of the Pelopenese, but circumstances prevented it. First, we backtracked to Poros where we spent a week looking after Michael Sutton’s house and dogs as he very sadly had to go to SA as his sister died. Then, we set out again – only to backtrack again – this time to buy a new anchor.  Ours was not holding and after yet another experience of re-anchoring 3 times and holding thumbs that the anchor held, we decided to ditch it and find a good one. THEN, we were caught in the midst of a 2 week meltemi – fierce summer wind blowing from the north. We holed up in a protected bay for 10 days and eventually set off again. This time we made it – and it was worth it!

Our first stop along the way was Plaka, the tiny port of Leonidion, a lovely small town on the Eastern Pelopenese. Unfortunately, the results of the Meltemi were awful here, with a surge that pushed the boats relentlessly onto the quay. We tied up, but had to moor so far off the quay to prevent damage, that we had to use our dinghy to get on and off the boat. It was Saturday night and we were delighted to find that it was the annual Aubergine festival. The Leonidians are proud of their special, long, stripy aubergine – and we found out why. It is so sweet and succulent, it almost replaces dessert. The tiny village was buzzing with Greek singing and dancing – and delicious food. We loved it. 

Traditional dancing at the Aubergine festival

Henry in his Plaka office

Sally in hers!

We hired a car and drove from Plaka into the mountains over a spectacular pass - scenery that was unexpected and so beautiful it was moving.
 

This farmers cottage in Leonidion is typical of rural architecture from Arcadia. The town is surrounded by towering red cliffs that glowed in the sunlight.

Ag Nikolaos Monastery clinging to a cliff on the way up the pass

We stopped for coffee in the tiny hilltop town of Kosmas, a beautiful and authentic Greek village we wished we could explore for more than a few moments   

In Kosmas buying greek biscuits... and honey...and olive oil... and honey dipped deep fried pastry. She took a shine to Henry and pressed even more yummy cakes onto us as we were leaving!  

This store keeper in Kosmas was incredibly proud of his beautiful brass scale

After Plaka, we sailed to Monemvasia; definitely one of the highlights of our trip. We have been to the ancient archaeological sites of Delphi and Mycenae, the medieval ports of Nafpaktos and Nafplion, the magnificent Byzantine town of Mystra – and now another walled Byzantine town, the trading port for Mystra. Monemvasia is described as the Gibralter of Greece with the town built on a huge rock, joined to the mainland by a causeway. We loved exploring the winding streets and various buildings - a mix of mostly Venetian and Byzantine.

View of Monemvasia as we arrived sailing past

Iron clad and riveted timber gate at the main entrance to the town

Detail of the gate

View through the village showing the fortress above

Byzantine church amongst the rooftops

Decorated stone in a church

Taking a rest

Most of the people we come across sailing in this area are German, French, Danish, Swedish, few English and very few Greeks. Moored next to us in the Monemvasia harbour was a delightful Greek, Dimitris, who was helpful, friendly and informative. He treated us to a marvellous ouzo and meze supper at a harbour front taverna specialising in grilled octopus, whole grilled squid and octopus in wine. The tavern owner brought us a bottle of ouzo on the house, so our first ouzo supper was a little strong, but great! Dimitris has also offered us the use of his permanent mooring in Porto Heli opposite the island of Spetses. This is incredibly generous and helpful to us as we cannot get off the boat for long if we are just moored in a harbour. The people we meet continue to amaze us!

Octopus hanging out to dry in the sun. It is much more delicious than it looks!

As if all of this was not enough, we had the most wonderful sitings of Leatherback sea turtles in the harbour where we were moored – swimming under and around the boat. Our friendly tavern owner told us that 5 years ago there were 2 and this year there are 8 of these magnificent creatures. He says that the fishermen are upset because they eat all the octopus and crabs, but they are powerless to do anything as the turtles are protected and the punishment would be worse than for murder! Lose your boat and go to jail for 20 years…..

Snorkeling off Monemvasia on our way to Yeraki. The water was crystal clear and we could not resist it.

We left Monemvasia for Yeraki, a tiny village tucked into an inland bay. It must have been prefect for pirates of old, as finding the entrance through the craggy cliffs is a feat. (The scenery in the Pelopenese is magnificent. Extremely rugged and mountainous, sparsely populated. Reminds us of the Baviaanskloof and Outeniquas and the more wooded parts of the karoo.) Our intention was to stay for 1 night and leave before heavy winds hit on Sunday. But we were seduced and as the forecast showed Monday light winds we stayed. Yesterday we spent the day swimming in the crystal clear waters and sketching and reading. It is not often that we have such calm weather and such a magnificent mooring with splendid views of bay, village and mountains. Unfortunately, the latest weather report shows the Meltemi is continuing and we have my friends Jenny and Ian arriving from Australia on Tuesday – and we are in a very isolated place so have to brave the weather to get to a port to meet them. Bring on the rescue remedy!

Yeraki is totally enclosed apart from a narrow entry channel

View from the boat - typical cottage

Bikes seen on a walk

We loved the building painted like a Greek flag 

Henry sketching boats

Sundowners on the boat

The other momentous highlights mentioned earlier:

MYSTRA

Mystra near Sparta, the best preserved Byzantine town in the world. Occupied until 1957 and now a cultural World Heritage site. 

Mosaics - about 600AD

Some beautiful frescoes on the ceilings on one of the many churches. Most were painted over during Turkish occupation, but the paint has been removed although damage remains.

DELPHI

Delphi, 800BC - perhaps the most amazing ancient site we have visited. It spans a huge area specially chosen for its dramatic position and the effect it would have on all coming to worship, visit the oracle and make sacrifices. We visited with Sarah and all of us were moved by this awe-inspiring place. 

Henry resting on 3000 years of history

Sarah in the amphitheater. She spoke very softly and we could hear her at the top

NAFPLION

Nafplion, fortified Venetian styled town, was the first capital of  modern day Greece after the War of Independence in 1828

Steps leading up to the fortification. Started in ancient times and modified by the crusaders and later the Turks

The Bourtsi, a small fort we sailed past at the entrance to the harbour

The town is described as a gem in the guide books - a combination of narrow winding streets and alleys, sophisticated shops, cafes and square. A favourite refuge for Athenians but largely off the tourist beaten track. We loved it!

Nafplion is famous for its Komboloi (worry beads) - there is a museum here dedicated to this  mysterious string of beads!

A typcial taverna and urban building

The Lion of St Mark - a Venetian symbol and also the symbol of Nafplion 

NAFPAKTOS

Medieval town, important from 500 AD to the Greek War of Independence. The present fortifications were built 500 years ago. We anchored just outside this tiny harbour - if you look hard you can see the boat!

Henry admiring one of the fortified gates

MYCAENAE

The entrance to Mycaenae, the beginning of Homer's "Odyssey". In the mid 1800's, Agamemnon's tomb was excavated along with gold and treasure unsurpassed anywhere in Ancient Greece.  The buildings date from 1600BC.

Sally standing next to a Cyclopean wall - to this day experts are unable to explain how these mammoth boulders were cut so precisely and manipulated into place

HENRY

Chimneys we saw in Monemvasia. An outlet for creativity in a highly constrained asthetic...... 

HENRY

If you are not interested in the finer points of sailing, the following may be boring! Sorry, you will have to skip it if it is!

Sally and I have an agreement that we don’t sail in winds in excess of Force 6 on the Beaufort scale. That’s about 25 knots. More than that becomes very uncomfortable with the short steep seas that are typical of the Med.

Our sailing experience has not been what either of us expected. We thought the Mediterranean was going to be gentle: gentle winds, flat seas and easy places to moor the boat for the night. Nothing is ever as it seems! At times, it is positively scary! Sally is terrified in strong winds with the healing boat and rocky sea.

Sarah on helm for the first time - on rocky seas. Both hanging on!

The wind has been surprisingly strong and we are still not sure if this year has been an exception. This morning, chatting to someone who has sailed the Med for years, complaining about the wind in the Cyclades from where he just returned: 50 knots apparently. We have avoided these islands so far because it has been so stormy; the wind, known as the Meltemi, seems to have blown strongly there almost continually.

Based on our first trip from Corfu to Lefkas (25 knots on the nose) we avoid sailing to windward as far as we can and plan our trips to make best use of the wind.

Sally and I have been watching the weather on the Internet and know what the predicted wind will be all over the Aegean.

We have had some really wonderful sailing in 10 to 15 knots of wind, which we consider ideal. Sailing briskly but gently along, drinking a Methos (beer) in the sun is really hard to beat. The boat sails very well and has surprised us with her speed. She is very easy to handle and the two of us can manage most situations. Furling main (horrible shape) and genoa make sail changes really easy.

Henry in his element

Peaceful sailing

Beautiful harbour and safe anchorage in the Ionians

Another beautiful, peaceful anchorage in the Ionians. The storm hit the next day when we sailed 12 hours to Lefkada - very different scene!

We haven’t used the motor much for getting around and avoid it as far as possible. A 60litre tank of diesel lasts us for more than a month including the time we use it to charge the batteries and get the fridge cold. Apart from oil leaks, the motor has been trouble free.

Motoring through the Corinth Canal

As far as moorings are concerned, we are usually very comfortable. But there have been some exceptions with waves lifting the boat by as much as a metre. We have been to the most wonderful places, many of them off the tourist map, but it is surprising how quickly the beautiful surroundings are eclipsed by bad conditions. Wind is not really the problem, except when actually trying to anchor and tie the boat up, but waves are a killer and can keep us awake for much of the night.

Very windy Vathi harbour - we were stuck there for 3 days

Crossed anchors in Vathi - with cross skippers!

Death to the skipper who fouls someone else’s anchor!

Pegasus on calm mooring

We started the trip with the anchor that came with the boat, an old CQR, and had continual problems with it. In some places we had to re-anchor up to four times. We have just replaced it with a Delta, which is far more reliable. Arguments rage in the yachting fraternity as to which anchor is best, but so far we vote for the Delta.

For people who are new to sailing, the easiest part to master is the sailing itself. Mooring, Mediterranean style, is difficult and requires good timing and boat handling skills. Boats moor with their stern to the quay so that more boats can be accommodated on the quay, the alternative being alongside with the length of the boat along the quay. Mooring stern to requires the skipper to drop his anchor about 4 boat lengths from the quay and to then tie up the stern to the quay, using the anchor tension to keep the stern of the boat from hitting the quay. An anchor that is not properly ‘in’ is disastrous and it is a case of trying again and again until it takes by burying itself in the mud. Until we got our new anchor, this was a constant source of worry for us.

Sally and Henry walking the plank

Great stern-to mooring in Fiscardo

Henry happy after getting in safely. It is often so stressful we are shaking when we finally tie up.

Mooring alongside for the first time- felt nervous but it was fine!

Rowing to tie ropes onto rocks to "long-line"

Crowded anchorages can be a problem although we have not really had many bad experiences. At the height of the summer the more popular anchorages get very crowded and one has to choose one’s destination carefully. We have avoided the well-known places during the peak times. A week ago we visited the island of Hydra, with an absolutely beautiful town and a small harbour that everyone wants to visit. It is almost always full and we, with our friends Jenny and Ian from Sydney, made a big effort to get there on time. We stayed for three days, Jenny and Ian leaving on the second to continue their travels. Two hours before we were due to leave, a massive motor yacht came into the harbour, depositing both its proportionally huge anchors on top or ours. I yelled at the skipper but he dismissed me with a wave of his hairy arm. I then ran round the harbour to where they had tied up on the opposite side to us and again told him we believe he was anchored on top of our anchor and it would be impossible for our weedy windlass to lift his chain, let alone his anchors. Again I was rudely and angrily dismissed. I said to him “So you think I should dive when we can’t get our anchor up?” “Yes”, he says, “You dive!” When the time came to go we found ourselves trapped, as expected, under the motor yacht’s 2 extremely heavy chains. We spent an hour and a half trying to get free without success, eventually re-mooring on the quay again. Sally and I immediately went to the Port Police who were fantastic and forced the motor yacht skipper to pay for a diver to untangle the anchor chains on the floor of the harbour.

Tiny Hydra harbour - looks peaceful here, but tempers can quickly flare

You can see how small the harbour is - a problem because the town is so beautiful and everyone wants to visit

Having been delayed by 3 hours leaving Hydra, we set off into a head wind with large waves, some 3m high. The movement of the boat caused Sally to lose her handhold and she plummeted down the companion way bruising herself quite badly but scaring us both much worse. With only two of us on board, as soon as I left the wheel, the boat turned side on to the waves and rolled wildly, making everything worse. We eventually docked in Poros just as the sun set, completing the absolutely worst voyage of the trip!

The only certainty is that similar things are going to happen again!

Henry and Dan trying on the life-line safety harnesses -  probably more dangerous than helpful

Although we have done less sailing than we had hoped (either gales or calm), other aspects of the trip have been so much more than we had expected and the only way it could all have come together is, without doubt, through Pegasus!